The Good, the Bad, and the Ugly from Caribbean Resort Style Week

This has been a hectic but fabulous month of November so far; the unofficial fashion month of Trinidad and Tobago! Every night I'm at events, and every day I'm meeting with designers and brands to retail on nomorefashionvictims.com (Shameless plug.)

This whirlwind month of fashion shows, product launches and Christmas markets was kicked off last weekend with the annual Bits and Pieces Christmas pop-up on Saturday and the Resort Style Week Port of Spain Show on Sunday at the Trinidad Country Club. The show lineup was impressive with big names like Meiling, Zadd and Eastman, Claudia Pegus and Millhouse to name a few. It was expected to be the fashion event of the year.

I can't get too lengthy and I don't want to go one reviewing each designer. There's another show in a couple hours and I need to hustle if I want to make it! So, here's the gist of it, and how I feel.

I'm always going on and on about the Caribbean aesthetic, and by now even I am sick of hearing about it. This show though, was a clear indicator of what Trinidadian designers think of the way Caribbean people dress or should dress.

The Good: The strongest designers to me are Meiling, Zidelle Daniel for XOZ, Adrian Foster, Charu Lochan Dass for CLD,  The Cloth, Aisling Camps and Zadd and Eastman.  Meiling, Aisling, CLD, Adrian and Zidelle all have something in common. Their aesthetic is clean, easy to wear, architectural, well-constructed and classic yet with special and surprising elements. They shy away from colour, which with the stigma of Carnival and our fusion of vibrant cultures, is a deviation from what some may perceive as a signature detail in the "Caribbean Aesthetic". Yet, they insert into their collections subtle and unexpected moments of chromatic hues here and there.

 

 (left)Chartreuse ribbon belted over Meiling's a denim and gingham patterned look
from Meiling's "Borrowed from the Boys" Collection 

On a mostly monochromatic collection, Zidelle incorporated this multicolor beaded bodice. Yes! Those are beads!

 The Cloth and Zadd and Eastman are very different from that first group. They embrace the conventional island inspiration of vivid flora and kaleidoscopic cultural influences. Yet, they maintain very sophisticated style lines and thoughtful design. While I am very drawn to the boxy silhouettes and woven cottons of the others, I am still enchanted by the flowy ease of Zadd and Eastman's collection, and the almost jarring juxtaposition of prints from The Cloth.

Somewhere between these two groups is that "Caribbean Aesthetic". 

My favourite look from Zadd and Eastman

The Cloth

The Bad: While some designers showed styles that would be fitting over a swimsuit (it was a Resort show after all) I feel there is still a disconnection between Runway fashion and Real Women. Everything is gorgeous when it blowing in the breeze and taped down strategically on a tall, slender girl with professional hair and make-up, but not so much on 5 foot tall me after eating some crab and dumpling at Pigeon Point. I urge the designers who like this style, to do more than just stitch triangles of fabric at the corners and call it a dress. Design is more than just what looks pretty. Get creative and try some manipulations of your pattern. Add an interesting detail or technique. Stop giving us the same old.

 The Ugly: I was shocked to see certain pieces on that runway, let me tell you. I won't call any names or post any pictures because people are sensitive. I never mean to embarrass or insult anyone but some things have to be said. Puff paints and glitter glue do not belong on any runway anywhere except for Project Runway's Threads which features little children getting creative with crafts and clothes. Zidelle Daniel made feathers out of fabric and cleverly layered them over one another on a casual crop top and hand stitched them into place. If she can invest so much thought, effort and creativity into a basic piece, how dare you squirt colourful glue onto silk like if this is kindergarten? You are spoiling good and expensive fabric. Not acceptable. You can do better than that. Also, I saw a "Sari" with a deeya painted on it. A sari is a piece of cloth wrapped. draped and tucked around a body. That is your design? A piece of cloth that people have been wearing since clothing was invented? This is what you do to make it modern? You draw a deeya on it? It baffles me that this particular collection was shown on the same platform as the greats. Fabric surface treatments have long been a Caribbean thing, but there must be some way more current, sophisticated and beautiful than drawing and painting pictures like if people want to be murals. If it looks like it belongs in a gift shop in Piarco, start over. I know not even you want to wear that.

Zidelle's Beautiful Fabric Feathers

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Thoughts on Noor Boudoir

I have been evading this blogpost like a bullet.

I had been to Noor's store before, and was so taken by the fine silks and exciting bright embellishments on her garments. There was a definite influence of her Pakistani background in the clothing, with rich colouring and seductive sheers. When I was invited to attend the showing this past Monday, I was thrilled to see what new magic she has been cooking up.

The runway set up was quite charming, as they transformed (what I find to be ) a shabby Ballroom into an appropriate space for fashion. I loved how there were crystal chandeliers hanging sporadically from a rustic and tattered ceiling. The contrast of glam and worn-out had me expecting to see a collection reflective of that aesthetic. Well, I was right about that.

Sadly, I was sorely disappointed by the collection. I hate to say this, because just last night I met Noor at another event, and she was so nice. I know that this designer has a rich cultural influence, and a huge following of sophisticated women. I thought I knew what her message and aesthetic was, but that collection totally threw me off. It did not look expensive nor modern. It did not relate a clear sense about who her client is. It looked amateur- but Noor is no amateur! I still remain confused.

There was a strong sense of Esmeralda the gypsy, and some strangely placed strips of black leather and silver zippers. There was also some bedazzled bras and body belts. :S I cannot imagine the woman who would wear these things, and neither to where. On a positive note, when the silhouette was kept simple and clean, I feel that it was strongest. Sometimes you really have to draw a line between creativity and sellability. I feel that was the principal weakness here. I hope that for the store, that most of what was shown would be edited and adjusted. The fabrics were lovely for the most part, but I feel they could be put together in a different way so as to appeal to her clientele.

Even Styled differently I can't see this on anyone

I have no idea where this poorly tailored jacket came in

Those zippers.. The horror!

This column dress was repeated in various patterns.
It was probably the truest design to what I feel Noor is-
Classy, colorful and Ethnic inspired.

The Simpler Silhouettes were more successful

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From the Stage to the Shop Part 2: Getting Personal

There is so much excitement over our recent and somewhat sudden eruption of local talent in the fashion industry. I too am a fan of this resurgence of design, and the public interest in wearing clothing made in Trinidad and Tobago and the wider Caribbean. Yet, as a Personal Stylist I do have growing concerns about the designs and the messaging, and whether or not the consumer is the thought, instead of the concept and the dream.

The biggest reactions are of course given to the avant-garde looks that come down the runway. They push the mind out of its confines and initiate awe at the mere thought of how they were achieved. Wonderful. Yet, it isn't a competition to see who gets the loudest gasp from the audience. These clothes must eventually reach a closet, and a human body in a real world. A collection should be able to be broken up into wearable and flattering pieces that function in the lives of the target customer. These target customers are some of my clients. When they are only exposed to extra-worldly aesthetics and all kinds of saga straps and sheer paneling; it can get pretty sad.

On Project Runway All Stars, Marie Claire editor-in-Chief, Joanna Coles sounds like a stuck record with her constant concerns about whether or not a bra could be worn with a garment. To the designers, it can be annoying. These pesky bras get in the way of gorgeous, daring backless masterpieces. However, research shows that even though the guests at the fashion shows love the way these perfectly cut dresses suggestively skim over an almost naked body, these are the pieces that are destined for a sale rack when the season ends. The fantasy on the runway and in the Editorials is just that- a Fantasy. In reality we have children to chase, in-laws to please and boobs that sadly don't defy gravity. The real challenge in design does not lie in transferring your ethereal vision into a tangible realisation, but in translating this creativity into a garment that is not only fresh and new, but effortless to wear, care for, and that makes the wearer feel and look amazing.

Design from Delia Alleyne

Another concern I have about our runway presentations is that of Personal Style.There definitely are the designers who know who they are and have a clear picture f the person for whom they are creating clothing. In this list I must include Delia Alleyne who with every piece that she has constructed, has stayed true to her feminine punk aesthetic. Despite the theme of the collection, she stays grounded.You will never have every woman in the world wearing only your garments. What you can aim to achieve is to attract all the women who fit your style. Think about her (or his) lifestyle, age, routine-- does she work out? What kinds of movies would she be into? Where does she live? Does it rain a lot there? Is it hot? Is she a family person? Does she like to travel-- you need to know your sample client as though she is your friend and design for every part of her life. Think about Versace. Donatella's girl is definitely a vamp. She has the men following her every move. She's not shy. She works out like crazy and only eats sexy food. Her hair, nails and face are always immaculate. She's loves to party and stays out late, and so on and so on. The clothing is therefore very revealing, and flashy. Several pieces are dresses meant for evening and social events. The models are sexpots. The fabrics are all bedazzled and brightly coloured with major peacock attitude.

Gisele Bundchen in Versace

I go through clients' wardrobes and see clothing that really makes me wonder. In Trinidad it is not so clear to the consumers about which store is theirs.You go through the malls and you see the same thing in every shop. The "Plus size" stores have the same designs and cuts as the mainstream stores, just in bigger sizes. If I never see another sheer blouse for as long as I live, it would be too soon. All jeans come in the same cut. Same colours. Same prints. Same, same same. We need to get closer to a place where someone can be looking out for new stuff to arrive because that store, or that designer always has something for them. It's like how the young, daring girls run immediately to Topshop, and America's sweethearts do not pass go; do not collect $200 and march directly to J.Crew or Ann Taylor Loft. We need more sense of identity in our retail marketing. I'm not saying it's not there at all- but MORE. 

Topshop 

Our fashion industry has been definitely making considerable progress. I am looking forward with eagerness to see it fully blossom. However, I do think it is important to keep the business aspect in mind, and incorporate personal stylists, fashion strategists, buyers, researchers, marketing managers, etc. into the mix so as to maintain this grasp we have on the public's attention. Let us keep them interested by giving them a product that is not just something to look at.