You can't please everyone, but who should you try to please most?

I'm going through a professional mini crisis. Things must be bad when I type a blogpost from my difficult phone touchscreen.  I really just need to get this out and to hear from my colleagues and teachers.

The first rule if styling that I learned was to forget all my personal likes and dislikes.  Dressing someone is totally about that person; their needs, personality and preference. With fashion design it is somewhat similar, but you get to create the identity of your client.  Luckily for me, I fall right into my target market, so I can use my personal opinions to make judgements and decisions.

Now with Carnival it's different. Your target audience is very wide in terms of what their tastes are. Costumes must be designed in a way that pleases a whole plethora of personal styles and comfort issues. They must also fall within a specific budget,  look original though not too much, and be simple to reproduce. What did I get myself into?

I built a prototype that reflected the theme in a somewhat literal, yet very sexy, trendy and fashionable way. As I have been reminded time and time again, Carnival is not fashion, so my design had to be changed drastically.

I defended my work strongly, having an explanation for every decision,  every bead, every gem- but the band leaders wouldn't have it. Remembering to please the client first,  I caved and transformed the entire thing to resemble a more mainstream design.

Still, they were not satisfied.  They fought me on the colour and the shape;  the only two elements that were true to my personal aesthetic. I felt frustrated.  Less and less this work looks like mine. Despite begging them to trust me, I decided to again put the client first. I did not sleep, thinking of ways to give them what they want without compromising my vision. Eventually I decided, hey, business is business. They're paying me to give them what THEY like so let me just  give it to them.

I made further changes and I'm not pleased with the turnout.  Not am I practically absent in it, I plainly do not like it. I cannot stand behind it nor justify why I put what where. I am yet to reveal the re-design to them. I hope they appreciate the effort and find what they wanted all along in it. I however do not feel that sense of accomplishment that you get when you give birth to the ideas that incubated in your mind.

So I ask you, who really is the one to please? The feeling I have right now tells me I should have stuck to my guns and stood behind my work, but I think it's an equally shitty feeling to invest so much time and money into a client project and not be paid for it.  Tell me, what would you do in this situation?

A Few Days Later

I had a heart-to-heart with a fellow costume designer who gave me phenomenal support and advice. He said to step back and look at the costume; as difficult as it might be, with eyes that are not mine. Think about the comments I have been getting and welcome them as truth. He said to make changes little by little. I took his advice and went in with a pair of scissors. The costume is way past my vision for it, but strangely enough I think I see myself in it again. Only when I was willing to divert from the path I laid down for myself have I been able to see the goal ahead. Now excitedly I am making more changes and really liking where this is going!

Thoughts on Noor Boudoir

I have been evading this blogpost like a bullet.

I had been to Noor's store before, and was so taken by the fine silks and exciting bright embellishments on her garments. There was a definite influence of her Pakistani background in the clothing, with rich colouring and seductive sheers. When I was invited to attend the showing this past Monday, I was thrilled to see what new magic she has been cooking up.

The runway set up was quite charming, as they transformed (what I find to be ) a shabby Ballroom into an appropriate space for fashion. I loved how there were crystal chandeliers hanging sporadically from a rustic and tattered ceiling. The contrast of glam and worn-out had me expecting to see a collection reflective of that aesthetic. Well, I was right about that.

Sadly, I was sorely disappointed by the collection. I hate to say this, because just last night I met Noor at another event, and she was so nice. I know that this designer has a rich cultural influence, and a huge following of sophisticated women. I thought I knew what her message and aesthetic was, but that collection totally threw me off. It did not look expensive nor modern. It did not relate a clear sense about who her client is. It looked amateur- but Noor is no amateur! I still remain confused.

There was a strong sense of Esmeralda the gypsy, and some strangely placed strips of black leather and silver zippers. There was also some bedazzled bras and body belts. :S I cannot imagine the woman who would wear these things, and neither to where. On a positive note, when the silhouette was kept simple and clean, I feel that it was strongest. Sometimes you really have to draw a line between creativity and sellability. I feel that was the principal weakness here. I hope that for the store, that most of what was shown would be edited and adjusted. The fabrics were lovely for the most part, but I feel they could be put together in a different way so as to appeal to her clientele.

Even Styled differently I can't see this on anyone

I have no idea where this poorly tailored jacket came in

Those zippers.. The horror!

This column dress was repeated in various patterns.
It was probably the truest design to what I feel Noor is-
Classy, colorful and Ethnic inspired.

The Simpler Silhouettes were more successful

If you would like to subscribe to my blog and have the posts emailed to you first, scroll back to the top and submit your email address! Thank you for reading!

Have a Sip!

A launch I have been waiting for- the J. Angelique boutique!

Spent a fun Saturday evening at the new Valsayn boutique for the sexy brand! Divas (and their gentlemen) came out for a Sip! I was welcomed at the door by Strategist Rian Codrington and a tray of deadly shots of venom! The showroom  displayed all the past collections and the new mini-Collection Mod Divinity!
I grabbed a couple of girlfriends and newbies to the J.Angelique movement, and we had a time!

Rian updating us all on all the fabulousness that they have planned for the brand

oooh that Sangria did it!

The original Diva! Janelle Forde

Mod Divinity

Right to Left: Designer Janelle Forde, Leah, Me

OOOOh... And the best part was this little sneak peek!

Off the Rack!

Here I am with the humble talent behind the brand

Yesterday I attended what I was told was the first of many Off the Rack events by Designer, Adrian Foster. At these fun soirees, you can pick up your AF RTW pieces. He had his popular Romper Wraps, new Wrap Trousers (in different prints, lengths and fabrics), printed pant suits, shirt dresses and button-ups oh my!

With even close scrutiny, you can only see what I call immaculate tailoring. His trousers fit perfectly- hugging the curves and skimming the bumps. The fabrics are a textural adventure, ranging from smooth taffetas, to breezy cottons and then heavier embroidered weaves.

The next time you hear that one of these is coming up, do whatever you can to attend! (Even if it's for the complimentary wine and food!) It is really special to see this brand grow. I just know that Adrian Foster is going to be a name on everyone's lips!

Egyptian inspired copper printed pants suit. Jewellery by Cocoa Vintage

Vertical Monochromatic Print Wrap Jumpsuit

Made these Emerald Indian Printed Wrap Trousers mine!

The Year of the Snake: J. Angelique's Launch of Venom and Jin Forde

I definitely saw this one coming; a 2013 Runway Collection inspired by the snake motif (Check out below, an article I wrote in February). What I had not expected, was that a Caribbean based designer would be the one to recognise this growing trend and put together an innovative Travel Collection using the symbol in all its glory. This is why I love J. Angelique. Designer Janelle Forde and her partner Rian Codrington are a beautifully oiled machine when it comes to relating their vision for the brand to the fashion masses. They remain current, creative and consistent.

An Article I wrote for CocoBelle Magazine in February '13

Fashion Seasons pose a tricky situation for designers in the Tropics. In Trinidad I see Easter and Christmas Collections popping up instead of the traditional Spring/Summer or Fall/Winter seasons, seeing that climatically we do not experience temperate conditions. At CAFD, I brought up this question to a tutor, and was told that if we are to be considered on an international scheme, and to expand our market, that we need to participate in a 4-season plan. However, while I do agree, I have to congratulate designers for finding niche markets by designing for Resort and now, Travel. If you look at the consumers of our locally based fashion, they are women of the world who love travelling and experiencing different cultures. They are people who despite living in the Caribbean, take vacations to other islands, go on cruises and spend weekends lounging poolside.

A popular J.Angelique Silhouette; "Swim Dress"

As I said before, the J. Angelique brand remains consistent. The aesthetic will always be straddling the limit between sexy and over the top. Janelle loves to experiment with different ways to reveal what she sees as the most tempting erogenous zones; cleavage, hips, thighs and back.

Loved this detail! A butterfly Travel Case

Loved this Jacket! The peplum moved so beautifully

I do have to say that the surprising twist of creativity came in with the debut of Jin Forde; a women's work-wear line! To me, this will be the more successful collection. I saw many pieces that would work well in the life of real women (with real bodies), especially women who love wearing the brand when at play. Jane ain't no dull girl! I heard over the chatter, that people had concerns about the fabrics used for the work collection and I must agree. Especially under the bright lights, the textiles in the collection appeared too sheer or clingy for office. However, J.Angelique does promise the consumer the option to change fabrics when having the designs custom-made. Also, when observing a Runway show, I urge critics to recognise that Runway Styling is very different form real-life styling, and often has nothing to do with it. So when you see a plunging neckline on a jacket over a bare chest, and a thigh high slit strutting your way, don't by any means think that this is what you should be wearing to work on Monday. All pieces are tweaked and manipulated for Runway so as to create visual interest and spark a reaction from the audience. Imagine what a bore it would be to see comfort heels clunking their way along a catwalk... 

Asymmetrical Peplum Dress

All in all, the evening was a pleasure. The show was well planned and executed. Attention to detail was paid, and a consciousness about the fact that fashion is a business, was definitely made clear. Kudos.

Designer Janelle Forde

The Effective Simplicity of Adrian Foster

During my time at CAFD, I crossed paths with a charming fellow student, who was a year above me. Other students would talk about him and his work. It was clear that his potential was being marked by teachers and  closely observed by competitive colleagues. No one can deny that Adrian Foster has been blessed with  magical talent. By some work of the universe, he and I found ourselves in the same Contemporary Fashion History class. Naturally I gravitated towards him, and we sat together (also with seatmate Ricky B. Holla!), giving me the opportunity of getting to know more of him than just a fantastic illustrator and perceptive eye for design.

Adrian is like a cat. He is quiet and gentle. His delicate interaction with people make him like-able and easy to be around. Then there will be that moment where his company is caught off- guard by his passion, and his fierce love for fashion and art will arouse a startle. At only 23, Adrian has been recognised for so much. Aside from making waves at CAFD, he was awarded Designer of the Year by Enasha Photography, San Francisco in 2010.

I was able to ask Adrian some big questions, Naturally, he gave me even bigger answers!

How did you become involved in fashion?

Fashion for me started at a much younger age, unaware and uneducated about the industry or what I was doing. It was only then in my late teenage years I was introduced into fashion by a great mentor, now deceased. I remained with his teachings and experiences which help grew my interest even more. Now I’m studying fashion at the Caribbean Academy of Fashion and Design at UTT. I am now living my dream. 

What is your design aesthetic and who is your client?

ADRIAN FOSTER embodies “Simplicity that is effective” with clean contemporary lines and silhouette that accentuates the curves and valuable asset of a woman’s body merely to highlight her natural beauty. A sexual sophistication and minimal colour and hints of texture all to depict the simplicity of the design but effective and appealing to the eye. My target customers are young successful professional women who have very active social lifestyles.

How do you plan to affect, change and contribute to fashion in Trinidad?

By introducing a fashion brand to the Caribbean Market, the goal is to stand distinctively as a fashion designer brand name “of the Caribbean, from the Caribbean” My company is working towards changing the way islanders see Caribbean Fashion by providing a product and service that is of great value and quality which infuses a stylized ethnical Caribbean flare which can be appreciated by the many niches of the industry. It is therefore my company’s way of contributing towards the development of the fashion sector in Trinidad and Tobago.

What is your vision for the fashion industry in Trinidad?

I believe Trinidad and Tobago is entitled for many improvements for it to be a fully successful fashion industry. However in all due time it will. With that said, what I personally will like to see in the future is –

1.      A Fashion Association – by no means I am not trying hamper those that currently exist but, in my honest opinion Trinidad and Tobago is one country and I am pretty sure that we conduct one fashion industry which host many entities. Therefore why is there a need to have three and four Fashion Associations and most of which are not serving a purpose to help the problems and the developments of this fashion industry.

Furthermore, there are many sides to a fashion industry – fashion is not only about an image, design, or brand - it is also most importantly a business industry where buying and selling of goods and services are conducted.

Trinidad and Tobago needs to understand first that this is a business before we can even think about entertaining. This is where I believe a stronger Fashion Association can be introduce to conduct this fashion business in Trinidad and Tobago. One of the main responsibilities of Fashion Association is to develop a yearly plan of a seasonal Designer buyer’s month or week where during that season all design houses of Trinidad and Tobago and buyers/retailers come together where designers showcase their products to these retailers so that it is sold on retail. This is merely for those houses who wish to go retail.

2.      A Fashion District – the fashion industry in Trinidad and Tobago needs to officially take it’s place! We need a location which can house most of the high business of fashion; Caribbean Designer Brands mainly! Not sure if I can say “high end’ but quality retail stores which support Caribbean designer labels and so on.

3.      Production houses – Not all Fashion houses will be vertically integrated, but for few who wish to outsource production, I will like to see more fashion production houses setup in Trinidad and Tobago. Also it is the only way a real fashion industry will exist in Trinidad and Tobago.

I have to agree with Adrian. The fashion industry is a business. It may be fuelled by creativity, but it has the potential to feed our nation economically and sustainably so. Adrian is just one of the future entrepeneurs to be graduating from CAFD. Hopefully his colleagues share this type of thinking, drive and commitment. I'm ready to witness the game-changing result!

Adrian's Work was featured in the most recent issue of 6Carlos magazine