Tuesday, 28 May 2013

From the Stage to the Shop Part 2: Getting Personal

There is so much excitement over our recent and somewhat sudden eruption of local talent in the fashion industry. I too am a fan of this resurgence of design, and the public interest in wearing clothing made in Trinidad and Tobago and the wider Caribbean. Yet, as a Personal Stylist I do have growing concerns about the designs and the messaging, and whether or not the consumer is the thought, instead of the concept and the dream.

The biggest reactions are of course given to the avant-garde looks that come down the runway. They push the mind out of its confines and initiate awe at the mere thought of how they were achieved. Wonderful. Yet, it isn't a competition to see who gets the loudest gasp from the audience. These clothes must eventually reach a closet, and a human body in a real world. A collection should be able to be broken up into wearable and flattering pieces that function in the lives of the target customer. These target customers are some of my clients. When they are only exposed to extra-worldly aesthetics and all kinds of saga straps and sheer paneling; it can get pretty sad.

On Project Runway All Stars, Marie Claire editor-in-Chief, Joanna Coles sounds like a stuck record with her constant concerns about whether or not a bra could be worn with a garment. To the designers, it can be annoying. These pesky bras get in the way of gorgeous, daring backless masterpieces. However, research shows that even though the guests at the fashion shows love the way these perfectly cut dresses suggestively skim over an almost naked body, these are the pieces that are destined for a sale rack when the season ends. The fantasy on the runway and in the Editorials is just that- a Fantasy. In reality we have children to chase, in-laws to please and boobs that sadly don't defy gravity. The real challenge in design does not lie in transferring your ethereal vision into a tangible realisation, but in translating this creativity into a garment that is not only fresh and new, but effortless to wear, care for, and that makes the wearer feel and look amazing.

Design from Delia Alleyne
Another concern I have about our runway presentations is that of Personal Style.There definitely are the designers who know who they are and have a clear picture f the person for whom they are creating clothing. In this list I must include Delia Alleyne who with every piece that she has constructed, has stayed true to her feminine punk aesthetic. Despite the theme of the collection, she stays grounded.You will never have every woman in the world wearing only your garments. What you can aim to achieve is to attract all the women who fit your style. Think about her (or his) lifestyle, age, routine-- does she work out? What kinds of movies would she be into? Where does she live? Does it rain a lot there? Is it hot? Is she a family person? Does she like to travel-- you need to know your sample client as though she is your friend and design for every part of her life. Think about Versace. Donatella's girl is definitely a vamp. She has the men following her every move. She's not shy. She works out like crazy and only eats sexy food. Her hair, nails and face are always immaculate. She's loves to party and stays out late, and so on and so on. The clothing is therefore very revealing, and flashy. Several pieces are dresses meant for evening and social events. The models are sexpots. The fabrics are all bedazzled and brightly coloured with major peacock attitude.
Gisele Bundchen in Versace


I go through clients' wardrobes and see clothing that really makes me wonder. In Trinidad it is not so clear to the consumers about which store is theirs.You go through the malls and you see the same thing in every shop. The "Plus size" stores have the same designs and cuts as the mainstream stores, just in bigger sizes. If I never see another sheer blouse for as long as I live, it would be too soon. All jeans come in the same cut. Same colours. Same prints. Same, same same. We need to get closer to a place where someone can be looking out for new stuff to arrive because that store, or that designer always has something for them. It's like how the young, daring girls run immediately to Topshop, and America's sweethearts do not pass go; do not collect $200 and march directly to J.Crew or Ann Taylor Loft. We need more sense of identity in our retail marketing. I'm not saying it's not there at all- but MORE. 


Topshop 




Our fashion industry has been definitely making considerable progress. I am looking forward with eagerness to see it fully blossom. However, I do think it is important to keep the business aspect in mind, and incorporate personal stylists, fashion strategists, buyers, researchers, marketing managers, etc. into the mix so as to maintain this grasp we have on the public's attention. Let us keep them interested by giving them a product that is not just something to look at.


2 comments:

  1. hmmmm really glad i run across this ,because its exactly the process we are learning in class right now, its really interesting how much you learn from researching your target customer, knowing their lifestyle and shaping your collection to meet their needs, yet keeping it cohesive and modern....really enjoyed your perspective,,,keep on writing,,,ill be reading...

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    1. Glad you got the message Elizabeth! I will keep writing don't worry!! Thanks for reading!

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