The Bacchanal of Business and Blogging

I am pretty much as straight-forward as you get, hence the content of my blog.

I write to document my own experiences as well as those of my colleagues in the Trinbagonian fashion industry. We definitely have our ups and downs since everything is new and and we are practically building it as we go. I personally believe in and need a sense of community in this dream-building business. I have made really great relationships and friendships with people I have only recently met, sharing our struggles and finding solutions in each other's perspectives. It's quite magical actually.

Before working with Mel Gabriel, Sparrow and Kathryn Nurse, I did not have such a great appreciation for local fashion designers as I do now. Before meeting Darcel de Vlugt I was shy to address the issue of money in fashion business. Before meeting Simone Sant Ghuran I had a much more limited scope for how far my beanstalk could grow. Before seeing Nina Alcantara's drive and success with "The Power of Beauty" I didn't trust that people found themselves a worthy investment in this industry.

My blog is where I come to connect with these wonderful people who are sowing seeds into my own passion. Fashion is not a "Me" thing as some of us like to feel. It is a "We" thing, and "we" not going nowhere if this bacchanal, bad-talking and backstabbing persists, So please shut up.

I blogged about designers producing work that resembled that of others. Everyone starts talking about how I am attacking designers. Sigh. I write about challenges I am having with my own re-design project and people are making assumptions about it being for a particular Mas band, and are going to the bandleaders, sharing the blogpost and asking about why I am hating. Sigh again.

I sincerely am not here to offend or "hate" on anyone. So since I have to say it verbatim: I do not hate Rhion Romany. I am actually quite a huge fan of his designs, and I have always been since "She Wolf". I do not have beef with Passion Carnival. I have spent some of my most edifying weeks there, learning invaluable lessons and meeting wonderful people. I have invested so much of myself into this movement that to have any disdain for it would be self scorn.

I genuinely appreciate the popularity of this blog. I never expected the amount of readership, but it is quite warming to know that so many of you seek interest in topics surrounding our industry. However, please do not grow your weeds and malevolence in our garden of ideas and growth.

Talking to a friend today a particular word popped up. He said, 

 "Some people are not as insightful as others".

Don't be one of those people.

Why should I have to buy local?

The hashtags "Supportlocal" and "shoplocal" are really trending these days. We want to show off our latest purchases from the Pop-up shops and Upmarkets, proving that we are economically conscious, contributory and a little bit cooler than everyone else. Hey, I do it all the time.

I do it because I too am an entrepreneur in this budding Caribbean fashion climate. I know the challenges and I am genuinely proud of anyone able to overcome the reasons why they can't, and who can produce something worthy of retail and showing off.

I encourage my friends and social media followers to put down the credit cards and give the American online department stores a break. I wear the local styles to convince them that right here in Trinidad we have great clothing and jewellery and they don't need to resort to the cheap stuff fabricated by the hands of young Asian children.

So when I see shows like Tobago Fashion week, I get depressed. We want people to buy locally designed and manufactured merchandise, but we are not designing for them. How can you convince an uber trendy F21 brand follower to buy the garish and outdated looks that we call the "Caribbean Aesthetic". Does "Caribbean" have to mean straw hats and nakedness? Where is the consumer research? Where is the wear-ability? Where is the evidence that these designs were sketched with even a passing thought of who the buyer is? I find it quite stereotypical and unwelcome that this "Caribbean Aesthetic" is being marked by Afro-centric prints and cheap fabric.

Burberry Prorsum S/S 2012 will continue to be one of my most memorable collections to date.
The designer used the motifs we've been doing year after year here in the Caribbean and made it fresh, young and cool.
THIS is what Caribbean or Afro-Caribbean inspired should look like.

Styling , staging and models are of extreme importance to your brand presence. We too often skimp on these things, scouting models who are inexperienced and willing to work for free, and well, stylists? What are those? Caribbean or Tropical motivated themes are by no means new. They have been used time and time again all over the world and with major success. The only ones failing at getting the equation right are US- who actually come from the lands that breed these inspired looks.

Dolce and Gabbana 2012

Stella McCartney Spring 2011

Do not even talk about the quality. I have certainly spent good money on locally made clothing that has literally  fallen apart at the seams. You cannot charge designer prices for poorly made clothing with fabric that can easily be found at any store selling cloth downtown. What makes your clothing special? What makes you different from a seamstress? What is your edge? How are you transforming the resources we have here in the Caribbean and making it your own? I know it is expensive. I'm in it too. Do not jump in head first if you are not ready. What are your plans for sustainability? How are you convincing to people that they should convert from mass market shopping to your product?

I will continue to shop local and remain brand loyal to the designers that are worth the name and support. I can tell you though, that they are few.

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Fashionista Family: Coming together for "The Yes Collection"

November 2013 has shown itself to be one spontaneous and coincidental fashion month in Trinidad. Almost every evening there is some exhibition, pop-up shop, launch, or fashion show. Exhausting as it may be to keep up (while looking fab), it has been , and should continue to be great fun. I already see that events are pouring into December.

Last night I attended which was possibly my most anticipated showing of this stylish season; the showing of "The Yes Collection" by Van Der Vlugt. Despite her great talent and committed attention to detail, my eagerness to experience the show had more to do with the bond that I have formed with designer, Darcel der Vlugt.

Darcel and I met over the phone. I contacted her while I was working for a magazine, to ask her to borrow some looks for a photo-shoot. We spoke for almost two hours. The connection was immediate. For months to follow our friendship deepened and I can say now that in her I have found  someone I trust, love and truly admire.

I am not here to critique the collection. I want to share with you the magic that is happening, and how I saw it at the debut showing of "The Yes Collection". I was there to show my support to the designer. The journey has not been easy. Just looking around the room  noticed how many other encouraging friends of hers were present. I'm not talking about friends she had in school, I'm talking about industry professionals who made the commitment to come down to 101 Art Gallery on a rainy evening in the middle of a super busy fashion calendar. Meiling Esau, Winsome Pommels, Babatu Sparrow, Simone Sant, Mel Gabriel, Gary Jordan, stylists, bloggers, makeup artists, managers, you name them! The room was packed with names, all there excited to share their admiration and support. This is something I have been noticing at these shows now. We, the new emerging fashion industry professionals, are forming a sort of kinship. Every event I attend I am greeted by the big smiles of my favourite team; Grant and Gajadhar (Shawna Danae Grant and Keifer Gajadhar.)  Not too long ago we didn't even know one another, but now I find myself looking forward to Crystal Ivy's bubbliness. People I never met before were coming up to me yesterday, telling me how much they enjoy my work and how they are happy to be meeting me! Everyone (contrary to how you may think of the fah-blous fashionistas) has been approachable, warm, open and eager to share their ideas or listen to yours. Just look at the co-operation that went into The Power of Beauty!

In the past we talked about how local Fashion Organisations failed because of too much segregation. I hope that this mutual respect and camaraderie that we have is providing sturdy building blocks to a future Group with a focused agenda in the common interest of growing and developing our passions into a tenacious industry.

From the Stage to the Shop: Tobago Fashion Weekend Afterthoughts

I spent the week rummaging through Social Media, macoing hardcore to catch a glimpse of the Tobago Fashion Weekend happenings. I was quite saddened to see that I missed out on what appeared to be a fantastic platform for new and more well-known designers to show what they're made of. It was really a special moment to see UTT Students showing alongside veterans like Claudia Pegus, and standing their ground with work that was comparable in technique, quality and beauty. Congratulations to everyone who showed! Despite the rain and other hiccups, TFW definitely did not disappoint.

Sterling Nelson

Sonia Noel

I know everyone has been waiting to hear my commentary on which designs I loved and which ones in my opinion crashed like a 747 on a rainy day, but as I perused the hundreds of images posted to Facebook, I thought of a bigger matter than that of my taste and criticism. What is the purpose of all of this? Even more, do people get the whole purpose of it all?

I believe it was Anthony Rahael who said that Fashion Shows are not just a pretty display for people to ooh and aah at. (Paraphrasing of course.) They are a part of a business model. Fashion shows are an opportunity  for buyers, stylists and customers to see the fashion product, so as to make a decision regarding purchase.

Christian Boucaud Easter Collection

Very recently I see boutiques starting to incorporate Trinidad based designers' items in their stores and I must say I am thrilled at this progress! Rachel Ross and Meiling are now joined by Fete A.G.D. jewellery at the Gallery in Long Circular Mall. Vamp Boutique on Mucurapo Road houses Statements by Sarah Young as well as Hak Gwai Designs. Indulge on Tragarete Road started by carrying Christian Boucaud, and now have Whole Peace Swimwear. Afiya Bishop currently has made samples of her own label "Loud" available at her store, next to trendy imported garments, and I'm hearing talks of her soon to be including another Trinidad based Label (Not at liberty to disclose this yet, but it makes me pretty excited!!) These are just a small few, but I know of at least 2 more very popular shops that are scouting local designers to stock on their shelves! Let's not forget that some designers like Christian Boucaud and Rhion Romany, have opened up their own shops!

As an individual consumer, I urge you to take a look at the great stuff that you have available to you right here. Some of my favourite things I have ever worn have been designed and constructed right at home in Trinidad.

Designers are on a wave to have clothing Ready to wear. Van der Vlugt and Adrian Foster put out special designs this past month, available in select colour and sizes, ready for you after alterations. Our fashion industry is finally becoming a tangible resource as it is reaching our consumers more readily. I expect that soon we will be able to view and purchase pieces online!

I started NoMoreFashionVictims as a means to open up the eyes of my fellow Trinis to the fashion industry. The market will not exist nor grow if the potential consumers are not just uninterested, but unaware of what the industry is in the first place! I am happy to see people's eagerness about attending Fashion Socials like the Filtered Fashion schmooze Thursdays at Paprika, as well as Fashion Shows and Launches. (Heard that J. Angelique's launch is totally booked out already!) It is great to know that people are not only looking to see what is happening, but are coveting and purchasing fashion made in Trinidad!

Designer Christian Boucaud with Model Athaliah Samuels at TFW2013

I have been saying all along that 2013 is the year for our fashion. The steps have been small but steady and I am hopeful about the future. I now await an increase in school programmes, workshops and the availability of the human resource and machinery required to grow these small businesses. For now I will close my eyes now and dream of the the department store dressing room where I would hang up garments from Zadd and Eastman next to Michael Kors and Max Azria.

Zadd and Eastman TFW2013

Zadd and Eastman

Photo Credits: Inken Janning, Tobago Fashion Weekend, Christian Boucaud Designs, Adrian Foster

The Fashion Avenue

Anya definitely created an avenue for fashion in Trinidad.
Last night's show was quite the spectacle with a runway spread over two giant trucks in the middle of one of the busiest streets in the capital! The turnout was impressive, with people making their way to Adam Smith Square straight after work or school just to catch a glimpse of the celebrated designer who is putting Trinidad on the map.

Anya's patriotic drive is evident in the way she presents anything she does. Her both collections were dedicated to her twin island nation with names like "Tobago Love" and "Carnival of Colour". She said something that stayed with me- that for a couple weeks the world's eye is on Trinidad because of Carnival, but that now it would be on Trinidad for Fashion too! (Sorry world... at the moment we have nothing you can really see, unless you know someone who knows someone who gets their dresses from that wonderful secret talent living in Arima.)

It was all pretty moving and thrilling I have to admit, but, not to be a party pooper, however I do fear that all the hype may be nothing but hot air.

The country loves Anya...now. When she first entered Project Runway there was no big hullabaloo about it. When her sex tape came out, people had the nastiest things to say. Now, she's famous, and a plethora of sponsors and contributors are flocking to help her with anything her dear heart desires. Good for her! But what about the rest of us? If the CAFD students wanted to put on a street-stopping fashion show would Junior Sammy be so willing to lend his assistance? If it were another designer, would the ministries and relevant departments come together to make it happen? Another fashion prodigy can be lurking in our midst. Do we have to wait for them to win some sort of American Reality show before we acknowledge their talent? Newsflash! Anya was designing before her run in with Heidi Klum eh.

"The Fashion Avenue"  

They are declaring Ariapita "The fashion Avenue". Does this mean that spaces would be made for designers to set up their boutiques? Are the roadways going to be organised to make them more conducive for strolling shoppers? Is FWTT going to provide us with 2 weeks a year that coincide with the rest of the fashion capitals of the world? Are we getting a textile mill, or investments in the industry? Are there going to be factories ,or sweatshops (God forbid) ?What does this "Fashion Avenue" mean? I really am hoping for a straight answer.

Anya has done her part, and done so beautifully. I am taken by her humility and grace, despite her international success. We cannot, however, ride on her coat tails forever and only jump up when she organizes something. The girl is doing her- Trinidad needs to do Trinidad. It has been a wonderful distraction while it has lasted, but it is time for us to use her experience in a way to propel the industry as a whole, and to stop focusing on this individual! Don't put all your eggs in one basket TnT!

The Effective Simplicity of Adrian Foster

During my time at CAFD, I crossed paths with a charming fellow student, who was a year above me. Other students would talk about him and his work. It was clear that his potential was being marked by teachers and  closely observed by competitive colleagues. No one can deny that Adrian Foster has been blessed with  magical talent. By some work of the universe, he and I found ourselves in the same Contemporary Fashion History class. Naturally I gravitated towards him, and we sat together (also with seatmate Ricky B. Holla!), giving me the opportunity of getting to know more of him than just a fantastic illustrator and perceptive eye for design.

Adrian is like a cat. He is quiet and gentle. His delicate interaction with people make him like-able and easy to be around. Then there will be that moment where his company is caught off- guard by his passion, and his fierce love for fashion and art will arouse a startle. At only 23, Adrian has been recognised for so much. Aside from making waves at CAFD, he was awarded Designer of the Year by Enasha Photography, San Francisco in 2010.

I was able to ask Adrian some big questions, Naturally, he gave me even bigger answers!

How did you become involved in fashion?

Fashion for me started at a much younger age, unaware and uneducated about the industry or what I was doing. It was only then in my late teenage years I was introduced into fashion by a great mentor, now deceased. I remained with his teachings and experiences which help grew my interest even more. Now I’m studying fashion at the Caribbean Academy of Fashion and Design at UTT. I am now living my dream. 

What is your design aesthetic and who is your client?

ADRIAN FOSTER embodies “Simplicity that is effective” with clean contemporary lines and silhouette that accentuates the curves and valuable asset of a woman’s body merely to highlight her natural beauty. A sexual sophistication and minimal colour and hints of texture all to depict the simplicity of the design but effective and appealing to the eye. My target customers are young successful professional women who have very active social lifestyles.

How do you plan to affect, change and contribute to fashion in Trinidad?

By introducing a fashion brand to the Caribbean Market, the goal is to stand distinctively as a fashion designer brand name “of the Caribbean, from the Caribbean” My company is working towards changing the way islanders see Caribbean Fashion by providing a product and service that is of great value and quality which infuses a stylized ethnical Caribbean flare which can be appreciated by the many niches of the industry. It is therefore my company’s way of contributing towards the development of the fashion sector in Trinidad and Tobago.

What is your vision for the fashion industry in Trinidad?

I believe Trinidad and Tobago is entitled for many improvements for it to be a fully successful fashion industry. However in all due time it will. With that said, what I personally will like to see in the future is –

1.      A Fashion Association – by no means I am not trying hamper those that currently exist but, in my honest opinion Trinidad and Tobago is one country and I am pretty sure that we conduct one fashion industry which host many entities. Therefore why is there a need to have three and four Fashion Associations and most of which are not serving a purpose to help the problems and the developments of this fashion industry.

Furthermore, there are many sides to a fashion industry – fashion is not only about an image, design, or brand - it is also most importantly a business industry where buying and selling of goods and services are conducted.

Trinidad and Tobago needs to understand first that this is a business before we can even think about entertaining. This is where I believe a stronger Fashion Association can be introduce to conduct this fashion business in Trinidad and Tobago. One of the main responsibilities of Fashion Association is to develop a yearly plan of a seasonal Designer buyer’s month or week where during that season all design houses of Trinidad and Tobago and buyers/retailers come together where designers showcase their products to these retailers so that it is sold on retail. This is merely for those houses who wish to go retail.

2.      A Fashion District – the fashion industry in Trinidad and Tobago needs to officially take it’s place! We need a location which can house most of the high business of fashion; Caribbean Designer Brands mainly! Not sure if I can say “high end’ but quality retail stores which support Caribbean designer labels and so on.

3.      Production houses – Not all Fashion houses will be vertically integrated, but for few who wish to outsource production, I will like to see more fashion production houses setup in Trinidad and Tobago. Also it is the only way a real fashion industry will exist in Trinidad and Tobago.

I have to agree with Adrian. The fashion industry is a business. It may be fuelled by creativity, but it has the potential to feed our nation economically and sustainably so. Adrian is just one of the future entrepeneurs to be graduating from CAFD. Hopefully his colleagues share this type of thinking, drive and commitment. I'm ready to witness the game-changing result!

Adrian's Work was featured in the most recent issue of 6Carlos magazine

My Spirit is feeling Stylish already!

So I missed the first day of the official first Style Spirit Weekend. Sad. Definitely made up for it at the Jewellery Trunk show this morning though! For those of you who did not go, don't worry I'll tell you what you missed and where you can get it again.

Some business cards for the designers that showed

Let me start off by saying that Mel Gabriel, you have guts girl. So many people sit back and whine about lack of government support in the fashion industry (I've done my fair share of ranting). Mel has started, what I feel is, a revolution in the direction Trinidad fashion. I have been saying for a while that the industry is better off in the hands of the people. It is a passion- driven, obstacle-laden, time-devouring sector that can only be nurtured and developed by the people who have true vision and the determination to mold it into a substantial  force. Kudos to Mel for this fashion weekend. Hard luck FWTT.

Koko Karibi dyed Agate rough slices with onyx 

I got up this morning, put nothing but ebullience in my belly, and head down to Medulla Art Gallery with my focus on Koko Karibi. I made my way to their table first and as expected, swooned over their expertly crafted pieces. My hand started to scratch one time! Unfortunately the pieces I lusted for the most were prototypes and would require time to be custom made. I really wanted to wear the designer tonight for the first set of Style Spirit fashion shows! I still walked away with some goodies; a Christmas gift for a well-deserving goddess in my life, and two pairs of earrings. I'm marking down the polished stone necklace for my Christmas gift registry.

One of the pairs of earrings I got from
 Koko Karibi

Next to Koko Karibi was C.L.A.S.P. who I also looking forward to seeing! I included her fresh water pearl and Swarovski crystal key rings on my Christmas Idea list on           www.facebook.com/nomore.fashionvictims.1. 

Again, my favourite pieces were already grabbed up and reserved for the fashion shows later. Bummer.

What awaited me outside on the deck was definitely unanticipated. Past the fabric woven necklaces by Rachel Amy Rochford, and some oversized wooden African inspired wonders was a humble and sweet Indian vendor with a table covered in countless intricate pendants, rings and ornaments from Thailand and other parts of the East. My soulmate. The shop is called "The Oblique Imperative" and I must have spent an hour ooh-ing and ah-ing at the Tibetan Ohm motifs and Lapiz Lazuli. Rohan's charming Goan Indian accent helped to transport me into a world of rich culture and devotion. I am a sucker for India and it's magic. When I spotted the Elephant ornament with it's trunk raised- well that was it. I was sold. I will be visiting this zen shop again. I was moved to lunch at House of Jaipur immediately after! (To see Rohan's things contact hanicsousa@gmail.com. He is based in St. Ann's.)

Tibetan Ohm pendant

Deep green Jade ring with Ohm engravings

 

Pretty Please

I was just looking at the review of another one of those fashion fora where an analyst discussed the necessary efforts, such as (manufacturing, e-commerce, etc) for the advancement of the fashion industry in Trinidad. The usual elephant in the room raised his trunk at me. There is an important issue that no one mentions. It is quite apparent, and we all know it, yet it seems like we are scared to say it.

A lot of the local designs are...well... ugly! Hear me out. There is so much investigation going into how we should market the Caribbean aesthetic, and I am fully on board with all of the suggestions. However, a significant obstacle for the industry is that Trinidadians just are not biting. This is partly due to the fact that a vast majority of local "designers" produce undesirable garments. People don't want to buy ugly, unwearable clothes!

While I was looking at the programme on CTV this evening, footage of some fashion show was displayed, and most of the designs were in poor taste! They were obviously constructed horribly, there was no cohesion in the looks of the collections, the designs were definitely not relevant with any fashion era I could think of, and even the models looked like absolute amateurs! A fashion show is the stage for the public to view what the designer has to offer. If what you have to offer is tacky polyester/spandex ruffly ill-fitting stupidness- Please desist from "representing" Trinidad fashion. You are contributing to our problem.

The ideal representative designers who will be able to help propel our Fashion industry as one which can compete internationally and relevantly, are those who are thoroughly educated in terms of design concepts, fashion marketing, their target client, trend forecasts, knowledge of fabrics and detailed tailoring and construction. They are those who can put this knowledge into practice, as well as provide for the demand with an efficient manufacturing method as well as transaction strategies. They work according to the international fashion week timeline, and have developed internet networks as well as physical stations where clients can interact with the fashion. They have a concept about what they want to represent aesthetically and otherwise  and commit to this with any form of merchandising that they put forward. And last but not least, they have a good idea about what real women wear- they have incorporated a stylist to help determine the most appropriate colour-ways and silhouettes for their collections.

So before you think it is as easy as stitching together two old pieces of cloth and calling yourself a designer, use this as a checklist. And pretty please, make our fashion pretty, please.