Sunday, 9 December 2012

Style Spirit Saturday

Style Spirit Fashion Weekend has had a lot to say. It has told us that we do not need to rely wholly on the government for everything. We have seen that there are a lot of new voices in the fashion industry that really want to be heard. The event has also taught us that with enough will and want- we can realize our dreams and do things that others are too scared to even try.

I was only able to attend the Saturday, starting with the jewellery trunk show in the morning and the runway shows in the evening. It was a fantastic way to spend a Saturday; immersing myself in local fashion and creative energy. In a nutshell, the jewellery trunk show was eye-opening. Only a small few of the local jewellery makers showed (and they had some truly wonderful pieces), so that tells me that there is a whole world of opportunity within our island for this niche.

I have to admit that last night at the first runway segment I was a bit underwhelmed. BUT before I start off on a negative note, let me mention how absolutely thrilled I was to be there. The location was great. Props to Style Spirit organizers for choosing a place outside of Port-of-Spain for a change. The staging was fantatsic. The Warehouse provided lofty walls of naked concrete brick. At the top were big open windows with frames still in red oxide. Inside the windows we could see the frantic behind the scenes action of hair and makeup almost as though it was an intentional theatrical element. At ground level, the cold blank canvas was decorated with nothing more than the elevated outstretched runway, supported by a network of iron rods and bolts. Backstage was isolated with nothing more than a sheer white fabric panel, so that the silhouette of the figures behind were visible. Three rows of chairs on either side of the runway were slowly filled up.


The raw setting would have provided a wonderful backdrop for a super visually dazzling fashion show. The juxtaposition of the crude warehouse elements with a melange of colour and glamour would have been ironic and modern and so Lookbook. I assume this is the vision that Mel had when she decided on the location. Perhaps the designers' collections should have been previewed before, because what most of them had was not fitting for this scene.

After a barely audible announcement 1 hour after the scheduled starting time, Lisa See Tai's Collection walked down the runway. NOT a good opening collection. Her designs were superbly constructed and I would say relevant to a young cool Trini woman, but to open the highly anticipated Style Spirit fashion weekend with jersey tops and short pants was a major anti climax.

Lisa See Tai

Lisa was followed by Pink Lemonade. This collection had some decent pieces. It was clear that the client is a confident woman who loves her body, as colours were mainly bright and necklines plunging. In between there were some pieces that seemed misplaced. Generally I felt like the collection had no direction or cohesion. The colour story threw me off, ranging from solid bright primaries, to moody khaki and beiges and then a busy print. I don't recall any colour being used more than once to be honest. The highlight was when one of the models removed her shoes mid- stage and the crowd applauded. Not me, I was confused.

Pink Lemonade designer(left) and the
Collecton's opening look



Art of Wear
The Art of Wear was perhaps the most thought-out collection. With a clear retro theme dressed up in swing music, 40's style coiffed models swayed down the runway in afro-ethnic prints and red belted waists. This designer seems to have a clear idea about who her client is and what she wants. The A-line skirt silhouette took a brief diversion to a straight pencil, but all well within this vision of a sophisticated Caribbean woman. I made the comparison with Miuccia Prada's Miu Miu aesthetic in terms of the use of print. The only constructive criticism I would have is that I would have liked to see more options other than dresses, like perhaps more trousers or walking shorts.

Art of Wear





The next Collection I looked for was Wadada Movement. Before they came on, were some really unappealing designers (Hutch and Favala) whose names I could not even hear with the muffled voice-over. These collections should have been excluded from the show. As my date for the night, Nissa Hanooman said perfectly, "No eh". Wadada is a  brand that knows how to put on a show. If you were getting bored, (or dying from thirst as I was, since there was not even a single refreshment available, far less a tap) the marcher's drums and the silhouettes of the twin designers erect as they stomped behind the sheer divider, would have woken you right up. With gun shots and Junior Gong sounding, I have to say I was excited. Models fiercely marched down the runway, stopping to pose and salute with their game faces on. It was soooo well put together that I was almost distracted from the ugly outfits. (I hate saying this because I know one of the designers personally and she is truly dedicated to her cause). The military themed khaki cotton separates were backed with lace and dressed up in pearls. That was just not making sense to me. I definitely appreciate the mix of hard and soft, but in this collection, for me, it was a bit jarring. I feel like their target audience is a cool rasta woman who goes out in her combat boots and red lips. That woman would not wear those designs. "A" for effort though.




J. Angelique opening piece

J. Angelique was another designer I really looked forward to seeing. Her opening piece (a sheer slowing white throw over with high neckline over a white bikini) was beautiful and set the pace for a Resort type collection. Designer Janelle Forde really has an eye for fabrics and knows what she wants to say with them. I would describe her collection as "easy-breezy" with the nautical colours and white eyelet pieces, especially the surprise menswear designs! There was one outstanding dress that was a curve ball I would say; a cut-out bodycon with peepholes by the model's ass! Her butt was hanging out! It may not have been a practical nor coveted design, but it definitely got the audience talking! It was the only time for the night that you saw any major reaction from the crowd.
The famous "Butt dress"


Chandra Maharaj
That is until Chandra Maharaj's fluttering coral cover-up! Her collection was a great way to end. The pieces were very well constructed and her models looked like they felt sexy and confident in them.

The show ended around 11pm so there was no after party for me. Went straight home to wipe off makeup and go to bed. I guess I'll be on the lookout for media pics and other writers' commentary.

Photos Courtesy David Wears and islandnoise.net








(see http://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.530111323666492.126078.205317292812565&type=1 for all designers)


2 comments:

  1. We're hopeful that the new designers improve as they develop their personal aesthetics and technical competence. We saw some obvious talent though. Totally agreed on the Art of Wear. Wish you could have seen Hak Gwai!

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  2. I agree! Gosh I wish I saw Hak Gwai and Van de Vlugt! Rhion Romany looked good too from the pics I saw!

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