Tuesday, 4 June 2013

Did she just say what I think she said?: Common Fashion Term mix-ups

We've all been there. Unfortunately. In the middle of an animated conversation, the charming gentleman with whom you're wittily exchanging sentences mispronounces a word. He means to say ih-pih-tuh-mee, but says eh-pi-tome. You try to act nonchalantly, and take a big gulp of your apple martini to numb the memory. You want to let it slide. However you cannot get past the idea that if this date is followed by another, that one day you will be the mother of a child who says "mines" instead of "mine".


Okay. Maybe that's a bit extreme, but as a holder of a Bachelor of Arts for Language and Literature, poor grammar and vocabulary offend me. I'm not saying that my English is always perfect, but I do put a little effort into not sounding completely illiterate.

The language of Fashion is a new concept to us in the Caribbean. Actually, I even see the misuse of common Fashion terms in internationally written publications. Don't feel too badly if you happen to have made the fashion faux pas in the past. We're all learning. I'm here to just clear up some commonly confused terminology for you, so that in conversation you sound just as fashion savvy as you look!

A must-read
First up: Couture (koo-tyoor)
It's French, so it would be best if you pronounce it that way.
People commonly use the term to describe anything to do with clothing or fashion, but it means so much more. Reserve the term for cases where the garment in question is made specifically for the wearer, from fine fabrics and specific needlework.

 It was originally used as an abbreviation for "Haute Couture"; French for "High Fashion" or "High sewing". This is a protected name that can only be used by designers who fit particular standards in terms of construction and other details like how many ateliers are to be in the workroom and how many fittings a client undergoes. While you may be quick to call anything Couture, or Haute Couture, you will be shocked to find that the Chambre Syndicale de la couture parisienne has only has a handful of members! (To rightfully call your work "Couture", you have to be a member) Haute Couture garments range from US$8000 upwards to US$500,000.

So please, don't hashtag "Couture" on your denim shorts, nor should you be saying things like "I'm looking for something with a couture feel". That makes absolutely no sense.

My personal Fave: Stylist
Now this is where things get touchy. A stylist is a PROFESSIONAL. Yup, it's an actual job. I cut my boyfriend's hair when it grows past his ear, but this does not make me a hair stylist. I have quite a decent stock of primers, makeup and brushes, but nope; not a make-up artist either. So just because someone dresses well and has nice clothes, it does not mean by any stretch of the imagination that they are a fashion stylist. Period.

Stylists are experts trained in affecting the physical appearance of the subject, to achieve a particular look. They undergo extensive education on technique, interpersonal relations, and history of the field.  There are specific Stylists who deal with hair, makeup, nails, wardrobe, etc. With the constant evolution of aesthetics in the world, stylists are expected to be doing constant research, to grow their knowledge base and deepen their skills.

I am a Personal Stylist. My job entails finding the most appropriate  head-to-toe looks for my client, based on a plethora of personal lifestyle details. I have to shop for them, make appointments on their behalf, organise their closets to make them most efficient, etc. I have studied and worked for quite a while, to be confident enough to give myself this title. It is not just about looking pretty. Personal Styling involves a bunch of not so glamorous tasks. I love doing it because I believe that sometimes feeling confident starts in the mirror. It is supremely rewarding to have a woman finally confess to me, that she sees her beauty.


My work can easily be discredited when every Tom, Dick and Harrylal starts flinging around the term. Giving a friend an Advil for a headache makes you as much of a Pharmacist as getting likes on Facebook for your outfit makes you a Fashion Stylist.

Here's a list breaking down different types of stylists :http://alexandrastylist.com/define-stylists-what-do-they-really-do

Next up  Vintage
This usually refers to pieces that are over 20 years old; particularly items from the 1920s to the 70s. Yes, it refers to a time period. Very different looking garments can be vintage. Vintage does not only refer to Pin-up girls and red lipstick.

Editorial
I blame Project Runway for this one. The term is commonly mistaken for meaning "High Fashion" or "Avant Garde", when it simply refers to a printed article in the media. Fashion photography for editorials can be as effortless as a bare face in black and white, or as extreme as having a model covered in honey bees with shoulder length eyelashes. 

Avant Garde (A-vahn-gard)  generally refers to anything whether it be politics or art, that pushes boundaries and goes outside the box. In fashion design, avant garde designs will be those that are unexpected and often ahead of their time.

There are definitely more to list, but I'll leave you with these for now! Hope it helps clear up some confusion.

Sunday, 2 June 2013

The Year of the Snake: J. Angelique's Launch of Venom and Jin Forde

I definitely saw this one coming; a 2013 Runway Collection inspired by the snake motif (Check out below, an article I wrote in February). What I had not expected, was that a Caribbean based designer would be the one to recognise this growing trend and put together an innovative Travel Collection using the symbol in all its glory. This is why I love J. Angelique. Designer Janelle Forde and her partner Rian Codrington are a beautifully oiled machine when it comes to relating their vision for the brand to the fashion masses. They remain current, creative and consistent.

An Article I wrote for CocoBelle Magazine in February '13
Fashion Seasons pose a tricky situation for designers in the Tropics. In Trinidad I see Easter and Christmas Collections popping up instead of the traditional Spring/Summer or Fall/Winter seasons, seeing that climatically we do not experience temperate conditions. At CAFD, I brought up this question to a tutor, and was told that if we are to be considered on an international scheme, and to expand our market, that we need to participate in a 4-season plan. However, while I do agree, I have to congratulate designers for finding niche markets by designing for Resort and now, Travel. If you look at the consumers of our locally based fashion, they are women of the world who love travelling and experiencing different cultures. They are people who despite living in the Caribbean, take vacations to other islands, go on cruises and spend weekends lounging poolside.


A popular J.Angelique Silhouette; "Swim Dress"

As I said before, the J. Angelique brand remains consistent. The aesthetic will always be straddling the limit between sexy and over the top. Janelle loves to experiment with different ways to reveal what she sees as the most tempting erogenous zones; cleavage, hips, thighs and back.
Loved this detail! A butterfly Travel Case
Loved this Jacket! The peplum moved so beautifully
I do have to say that the surprising twist of creativity came in with the debut of Jin Forde; a women's work-wear line! To me, this will be the more successful collection. I saw many pieces that would work well in the life of real women (with real bodies), especially women who love wearing the brand when at play. Jane ain't no dull girl! I heard over the chatter, that people had concerns about the fabrics used for the work collection and I must agree. Especially under the bright lights, the textiles in the collection appeared too sheer or clingy for office. However, J.Angelique does promise the consumer the option to change fabrics when having the designs custom-made. Also, when observing a Runway show, I urge critics to recognise that Runway Styling is very different form real-life styling, and often has nothing to do with it. So when you see a plunging neckline on a jacket over a bare chest, and a thigh high slit strutting your way, don't by any means think that this is what you should be wearing to work on Monday. All pieces are tweaked and manipulated for Runway so as to create visual interest and spark a reaction from the audience. Imagine what a bore it would be to see comfort heels clunking their way along a catwalk... 

Asymmetrical Peplum Dress





All in all, the evening was a pleasure. The show was well planned and executed. Attention to detail was paid, and a consciousness about the fact that fashion is a business, was definitely made clear. Kudos.

Designer Janelle Forde